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  1. #1
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    Default 9hrs + Of Gaming On Psp With Custom Batt

    Check out the update2 further down

    This is a little guide that I want to write about how to make your own PSP battery out of replacement batteries from a Qtek 9090, MDA III, SPV M2000 ( it goes by different names ).

    Because I had an M2000 PDA Phone lieing arround doing nothing and just collecting dust because it had a broken screen so I wasnt using it, these things come with a spare battery in the box so basicly I had two 1490 mAH 3,7 V batteries. they look just like this:



    It was a sudden realisation because this wasn't premeditated it was so sponaneous that it amazed even me. I was just staring at its battery and it struck me. "This is a 1500 miliamps batt...hmm , my PSP hasa 1200 one". Pondering on the possibilities I struck gold thinking I could link both of them babies together and make a battery for a PSP that I previously had, it now belongs to my cousin, and I broke the battery for it trying to pandorize it. ( it runs only with the adaptor atm )

    This is NOT by all means a professional or even a semi-professional guide on how to do this. I dont have any knowledge of electronics and how they work in detail and whatnot, I only used logic and a simple mind and so could you if you should attempt such a thing.

    If you ever opened up a PSP battery with means of transforming it into a Pandora you have noticed that it has a battery body (silver) and a PCB (printed circuit board) like a mini motherboard with chips that control the PSP startup.
    This pcb has two main connectors. One is the '+' and '-' that connects to the battery the other is the 3 pin connector that connects the whole battery to the PSP.

    A phat PSP batt is rated at 1800 mAH and a slim PSP's batt is at 1200. Nedless to say that a slim consumes a bit less , thus the smaller capacity on the batt.

    Coming back to the PDA batts, i curiously took one appart just to find ,2 smaller batt bodies laying side by side both connected to a stick like pcb in the shape of an 'L'. I sketched this in fig.1.



    Whats worth mentioning is the size of each one of the smaller batts are the exact size of the PSP one.

    I took apart both of the smartphone batts, this way collecting 4 individual batteries. Each having written on them SONY FUKUSHIMA and two serial numbers. I googled one of these serial no's just to find that each one of these babies had a rating of 800 mAH. That was promising. 800 x 4 = 3200 mAH. In theory at least. The initial batts for the PDA phone had 1490 mAh so roughly 1500 / 2 = 750/batt (almost near the 800 mark found on the web.

    What you need to know with batteries is that if you want to join them together you need to know some basic stuff regarding voltages. Example: you have two 1,5V batts and want to power a 3v light bulb you need to join the batts in a serial connection. Fig 2.
    If you have two 1,5V batts and a 1,5V light bulb but want it to last longer you need to connect the batts in parallel as in fig.3.

    Basicly theorizing that if we have 4 batteries and want our psp to last longer we want to paralel connect them.

    STOP> WARNING> EXPLOSION HAZZARD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    IF YOU WERE TO ATTEMPT THIS AND THE FOLLOWING , THERE IS NO WAY I CAN BE HELD RESPONSIBLE BY ANYONE'S STUPID ACTIONS.

    IF BY MISTAKE YOU SOLDER THE BATTERIES INCORECTLY THEY WILL MOST PROBABLY EXPLODE! CATCH FIRE & CAUSE SEVERE BURNS IF NOT CAREFULL.

    DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE SHORT ( JOIN TOGETHER ) THE '+' AND THE '-' ON ANY BATTERY.

    DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS IF YOU ARE NOT SURE WHAT YOU ARE DOING.

    IF YOU DONT HAVE BASIC OR ABOVE SOLDERING SKILLS DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS IN ANY WAY.




    Taking appart our slim PSP battery ( I will asume that you know how to do that already ) we have the green PCB connected to the batt by 2 wide flexible metal bands one representing the + and the other the - sign. Be verry careful here, you definitely dont want to mistake which is which or you will end up with a busted / burned PCB. Note that the PCBs differ from Slim to Phat and they also differ with version ( revision ). A phat PSP batt will have a PCB inside the batt that covers it all ( some eralier versions have a tiny stick like PCB at the top of the batt, and a Slim batt has a narrower PCB. On the PCB you can see at the bottom clearly where the + and the - signs are. On the Slim batt PCB you have them in the form of B01 and B02. Or something that ends in those numbers. Note that the 01 is the '+' and the 02 is '-'. Because this pcb is slimmer than the Phat's the metal band that connects to the batt representing the '-' has an extension like an 'L' . Make note that this is the '-' I'll keep repeating this as many times as I see fit because its really important not to screw this + and - thing up. I attached the image of the batt splaied for all to see.



    What you want to do in both cases (if you either try it for the Phat or the Slim) is to separate the green board (pcb) from the silver batt. Whats nasty about that is that they are not just soldered they are pin point welded. So if you want to do this you need to carefully pry them loose. Why is that and not just cutting the metal bands is because you want to keep the bands the same length , in case something doesnt work and you need to put them back and they need to fold just as they were before.

    Once you separated the two (batt from the PCB) we turn our attention onto our chosen PDA replacement batts already taken appart. Like we already covered , we need to parallel these batts together.
    You could easily just align each one on top of eachother and just solder each '+' together , same goes for the '-'. Just like in fig 4. Tape the batts together to your liking.

    A battery pack like that should look something like this



    Because you cannot fit that pack into your PSP you will need to attach some fairly long wires to it (cca 3-4 inches or 10cm) so it will sit outside . Nut not too thick, they need to be flexible so you can attach the pack to the back of your psp if you want.

    Once thats done, you want to attach the wires from the makeshift batt-pack to your PSP batt green PCB, I made my wires color coded, red for'+' and black for '-'. Solder the wires to the PCB body to where the metal bands of your psp batt where attached, red to plus (body of the PCB B01) , black to minus (extension 'L' shaped band B02 on the PCB).
    Because the pcb is not held in place by the previous batt anymore ( we did not add that to our pack [but we could]) it will dangle lose in its case so once we assemble the pcb back inside the battery case I secured it with hot glue on the sides. Now the wires that we attached to the pcb will upset some because they will not be able to have a tight and neat assembly with the batt case so if you have a pin point solder gun just melt two little grooves on the bottom side of the case so that the wires can come out neatly, or just cut bits out of the plastic its your choice. The batt-pack and the former psp batt with only the pcb inside should look like this.



    Now once you have this ready-to-go you will definitely try to give it a go with your psp. Note that before you would try to dissassemble the pda's batteries you should have them recharged.
    Once you put the battery back into your psp you will feel a bit dissapointed to see that its not working. This is normal because once you took apart the psp batt and you separated the pcb from the batt nothing powered the board anymore and it lost some information ( the batt was acting like a permanent battery to help it hold on to the info) because the board was reset due to the separation , once you put the assembled battery into your psp you need to boot the psp with the adaptor into it this way powering the board from the psp itself. Once the psp its powered up you can disconnect the adaptor and enjoy. This will only be needed once or every time you disconnect the pcb from the battery. Now that you have started the PSP with the adaptor plugged in the battery's pcb will regain power-up functions by it self.



    I must say that I have succesfully tried this out and it worked for my PSP Slim, it should be exactly the same for the psp Phat, I could not test it out though because on my previus attempt to pandorize the Phat's batt I think I damaged the PCB for it. So it could only stay powered for 1 or 2 seconds after I pulled the plug on the adaptor so that needs testing.

    After a full charge on the new batt-pack I could get the PSP to stay powered with minimal brightness (turned off the power save settings) from 4 AM 'til 1:30 PM next day.
    Last night after a full charge I had it play a traklist of Plain White Ts on continuous from 1 AM 'till 9:34 AM with full brightness and visualization and it still had 6% left ( thats a bit bogus from the psp as it cannot calculate with the new batt how much it can stay powered on so it varies) so i can specualate that it could easily go for another full 45 min's.
    With gaming however I could manage 6+ hours of playtime in God of war. I could only get almost 3H with the normal one.

    From an aesthetics standpoint it wont be a pretty one, because you would have a big lump of a brick coming out of your psp, but if you dont care about looks then you should go for it or design a case with a holder for it. I almost never go for looks as long as it is practical and functional.



    So there you have it . It would be awsome if someone else should try and mod his/hers batt this way to get more play time. If you need questions answered and i can give them I'll be gladly at your disposal.

    I've done no research if someone might have tried it already so if anyone thinks I've stolen anything from anywhere is utterly mistaken since i've done this myself right off the bat.

    update:

    What I've forgot to mention in the guide is that after the batt-pack is made once you need to recharge it you can do it off course through your psp adapter like usual. But as we know the PSP by default it takes quite a while to charge so with this mod you will definitely take into consideration that the time it usually takes to fully recharge your PSP would be at least 2,5 times longer with this mod.
    Mine took a little over 3hrs:40mins to fully chgarge. ( I had it fully drained, remind me not to do that ever again) So I sugest you charge it through the night so you could game in the day time

    Update2:


    Hello again. Coming back with another update. This time I would like to show you that I took heed of your adivces and actually made something about that nasty looking brick taped to the back of the psp.
    I know you all gonna say something about me going back on my word ( not caring for looks yada yada) but it was more like I should get off my lazy ass and make something more appealing to the eye.
    I know that this installment was only gonna cut it for more battery time and maybe being able to break into a store but wasnt gonna turn any heads so this is what I thought would make it past the proverbial brick looks.

    First things first, taking appart the big lump 'o' juice.

    Obviously what anyone would go for is a slimmer look right ? This is a psp slim anyway. So in order to slim it I took it appart and rearranged how the batts sit next to eachother. I only had to desolder one end of the wire since they were gonna sit side by side two by two. Then I taped them back so they would be easy to handle. They look like this.





    Now the real surprise of the show is that I want to add the original batt into the mix as well. So in total (4x750) + (1x1200) = 4200 mAH !!!! in case you were late to math class thats what it should be in total. But in any way that is some seroius batt-power!! I mean 10hrs + of gaming for sure and maybe more than 14hrs for music. That's theorising what I managed to get out of the first ones. What I also wanted to mention here is that. These batteries are not new at all , I mean they have seen some action in their lifetime so I would expect that with new batteries the results could be at least 15% better.I already attached to this batt a black wire representing the minus so I can connect it to the other two.



    Like with the others this one needs to be parallel connected to the other batteries in order for it to supply its juice the right way.
    ( I got some awsome results to tell, but you have to wait until i'm finished writing this )
    Paralelled and stuck together they look like this but if the photo tricks the unknowing eye there is a simple schematic attached as

    well.





    Because we need to hold this pack onto the psp somehow without the ol' trusty tape I crafted this clear plastick case out of a floppy case.
    this is the case



    and this is how they look together with wires routed through it at the bottom.



    The lid of the UMD opens freely with no fuss and nu funkyness having the batt-pack attached to it. Atm I have it stuck to the back of it with double sided adhesive tape.
    Note that this is as good as its gonna get atm because I got plans for a removable solution and a charging station, a nice lid to cover

    the uglies and obviously paint the sucker in metal gray silver or mething... And that's not gonna happen right away.
    And uhm.... this could'nt have been avoided



    Now for the results. They are simply amazing. I just could'nt stay up for so long so I made my laptop record the whole ordeal of my psp runing God Of War. The reason Why I choose this title is because it seems to be a very demanding one. Now for the good part, my own record was something over 6hrs of gameplay, this time with the new batt added, i scored an amazing 9hrs and 20mins 55sec until the screen with the low batt came on.How do I know this precise timing ? I recorded it! I would you tube it but youdhave to stare at it for frikin' 9 hours! I think I'm able to do a time lapse but you guys just gonna have to take my word for it. Whatever you may say about it this is a lickity good one. A pack of batteries totalin' at 4200 mAH is nothing to sneeze at my friends. I welcome you to beat this score. And I will offer all the support needed.PLus a bag 'o'chips.
    Last edited by ietomit; 07-10-2008 at 06:05 PM. Reason: UPDATE 2

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  3. #2
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    please allow me to reply to my own post so i can make the post count

  4. #3
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    this is the last one

  5. #4
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    POSTED UP TOP BY "karothacker"
    Last edited by karothacker; 07-07-2008 at 06:01 PM.

  7. #6
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    awesome guide this is awesome i would try it but i might screw up
    [Release]BlackBox Core Registry Flash & BackUp
    OFFICIAL FIRMWARES THREAD[Updated -Added 6.20 FW]


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  8. #7
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    I would've never known anything like this could be possible,well now i know.:up:

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    Wow! That's really amazing man; it's cool that somebody found this out!

    Pretty dangerous I might say though =\

    The next step it to somehow conceal the 2nd battery more; rather than just taping it up to the back. Maybe route the wires through the PSP somehow and hide teh 2nd battery in the UMD tray?

    (I mean, who uses UMD's now and days with hacked firmware...)
    1.50> 3.52M33> 3.52M33-4> 3.71M33> 3.71M33-2> 3.80M33> (Each consecutive update)> 3.80M33-5> 3.90 M33> 3.90 M33-2> 3.90 LTD-X2 (No bricks baby!)



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    Interesting tutorial

    Quote Originally Posted by LordTacodip View Post
    (I mean, who uses UMD's now and days with hacked firmware...)
    I do.
    -Gangsta Spectre of Defeat-

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by LordTacodip View Post
    Wow! That's really amazing man; it's cool that somebody found this out!

    Pretty dangerous I might say though =\

    The next step it to somehow conceal the 2nd battery more; rather than just taping it up to the back. Maybe route the wires through the PSP somehow and hide teh 2nd battery in the UMD tray?

    (I mean, who uses UMD's now and days with hacked firmware...)
    I did think of a way to hide the batteries , but i would not ruin the insides of the umd case. It was a great idea, I did actually look to see if I can fit something in there. Only two though .
    I will make a case for the batteries and have it attached to the psp by the two screw holes on top of it. To not have it stick out so bad, I will reconfigure the way the batts hold together.I'll try a side by side config and maybe throw in the original batt as well.


 

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